Charles Dickens Trail launched on the Isle of Wight
Distance: 6.3 miles
The walk was put together by Sue Lowday (local historian), David Howarth (Rumblers Association), and Dickens descendant, Ian Dickens.
In 2024, a special walking trail was created to celebrate Charles Dickens and his connection to the Isle of Wight, marking the 175th anniversary of his last visit to the Island. During the summer of 1849, Dickens and his family spent three months on the Isle, and the trail uncovers some of the hidden gems related to his life and time spent here.
The walk starts in Shanklin, where Dickens first stayed while looking for the perfect holiday home. From here, he sent an urgent letter to his wife, Catherine, telling her he’d found the ideal place.
At the top of Shanklin Down, you can enjoy stunning views of the Island, with Portsmouth to the north—the city where Dickens was born in 1812. Dickens returned to the Island in 1849, exploring places like Blackgang, Ryde, and Cowes, often with his family and friends. He even had memorable picnics, one of which was captured by cartoonist John Leech in a whimsical illustration featuring an unexpected visitor—a "wopps" at a picnic. This scene is believed to have taken place at Cooks Castle, near Shanklin Down, with views of Appuldurcombe House.
The trail follows the beautiful downs, starting at St. Boniface, before heading down toward Ventnor Cemetery, where you can see the graves of Charles and Margaret Dick. Both are believed to have influenced characters in David Copperfield and Great Expectations.
Ventnor Cemetery from afar
The walk continues past the Royal Hotel in Ventnor, where Dickens and his wife stayed in 1838. This location, known for its healing air, was perfect for Dickens, who struggled with asthma throughout his life.
The route then takes you to Bonchurch, a charming village where Dickens wrote parts of David Copperfield. Here, you’ll pass Winterbourne House, where the Dickens family stayed, and Hillside Cottage, where John Leech and his family also holidayed. Leech famously illustrated A Christmas Carol and also depicted Dickens in his shower bath.
While on the Isle of Wight, Dickens wrote several chapters of David Copperfield, which is widely considered to be his most autobiographical work. The novel features many aspects of his own childhood, including his time working in a blacking factory, a difficult period of his life that he kept hidden for many years.
Dickens’s visits to the Isle of Wight were not just for rest—they were a way to balance the pressures of fame and family life while finding inspiration for his writing. During his stay, he swam in the sea, took daily showers in his specially designed shower bath, and spent time with his family, often leading walks and hosting picnics.
Many of Dickens's contemporaries, including artists, writers, and even royalty, also visited the Isle of Wight during this period. The Island became a popular place for cultural figures like Alfred Lord Tennyson, Thomas Carlyle, and William Makepeace Thackeray. The Royal Hotel, where Dickens stayed, was a popular destination for royalty, including Queen Victoria, who visited frequently. In fact, the hotel was renamed in her honour.
Today, the Charles Dickens Trail offers a chance to walk in the footsteps of this iconic author and explore the places that inspired him. Whether you're a long-time Dickens fan or just looking to enjoy a scenic walk, the trail provides a unique way to experience the Isle of Wight’s history and beauty.
Trail Highlights:
Stunning views from Shanklin Down
Ventnor Cemetery, where you can find the graves of Charles and Margaret Dick
The Royal Hotel, where Dickens and his wife stayed
Bonchurch, where Dickens wrote parts of David Copperfield
Hillside Cottage, where John Leech and his family stayed
Winterbourne House, where Dickens’s family spent their summer
Beautiful coastal views along the way
The trail also features QR codes with readings by Dickens’s descendants, bringing the story to life in a unique and personal way.
Whether you’re a fan of Dickens’s works or just love a good walk, this trail is a wonderful way to explore the Isle of Wight and immerse yourself in the life and legacy of one of the world’s greatest writers.
Important Information:
Distance: 6.3 miles
Start Location: Shanklin
End Location: Bonchurch
Access: The walk includes some steep inclines, steps, and stiles. It’s advisable to wear sturdy footwear and be prepared for breezy conditions.
Refreshments: Available in Ventnor and Shanklin.
Toilets: Available in Ventnor and Shanklin.
Leaflet: available for download to print out from here.
Enjoy the walk, and make sure to add your own stories to the rich history of the Isle of Wight!